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Olive Oils: Extra Virgin Varietals Offer a World of Flavor
If your experience of buying olive oil involves a supermarket – where the shelves are lined with olive oils with Italian-sounding name labels – you might think that olive oil is an Italian or predominantly Italian food. If so, you are very wrong. Olive oil was introduced to America mainly by Italians – hence the prevalence of Italian (or Italian-sounding) olive oil brands. But the olive oil comes from places as far apart as Spain and Australia – and each place gives the oil that is produced a unique flavor and quality. If you limit yourself to one geographic origin, you’re missing the whole flavor of olive oil.
Everyone knows that different wines can be made from the same grape variety in different places. California’s Cabernet Sauvignon is a different wine than France’s Bordeaux, even though they are made from the same grape. Every wine has a terroir – that is, the factors that influence its taste because of where it comes from, especially the soil and climate where the fruit was grown. Although many people don’t realize it, olive oil also has a terroir.
Apart from separation from the watery juice that is formed when olives are crushed, the olive oil of the first press is practically not subjected to any other processing. So, the product that you drizzle on salads or other dishes, or dip bread into, is largely derived directly from the fruit. In fact, unlike many “freshly squeezed” juices found in the supermarket, cold pressed olive oil is not pasteurized or heated, so there is no loss of flavor components due to heating.
Olives for oil production are grown in countries around the world, including Spain, France, Italy, Greece, Israel, Tunisia, Jordan, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and the United States. Although you may find the same variety – say, Manzanilla – grown in Spain, Israel, Australia and California, the olive oil will taste different in each location. This is due to differences in the composition of soil, water and climate.
The olive tree takes all these influences and condenses them into the olive – creating its “terroir”, that is, the factors of its aroma that are affected by the place where it is grown. (By the way, the next time you have a large plastic bottle of “Italian” olive oil from the supermarket, take a close look at the label. Chances are you’ll find the phrase “Contains oil from” and a list of countries, none of which is Italy! What you have is a blend of oils with which any terroir has been blended.)
Fine extra virgin olive oils are the seasoning. They add critical flavor nuances to any dish, and some oils go better with a certain dish than others – just like some wines go better with certain foods. If you like olive oil, you should collect several bottles of different varieties from different geographical regions. Don’t be afraid to spend more on fine oils than you would on an everyday oil – you’ll use a lot less of it. Extra virgin olive oils should not be used for cooking or frying at high temperatures, as heat destroys the flavor components. Instead, use a cheaper cooking oil and finish with a drizzle of refined oil. Just a drop of extra virgin olive oil will give your dishes a great taste.
A feature that is becoming more common in gourmet shops across the country is the olive oil tasting bar. If you come across one, take a moment to try the same varieties from different places and compare the different varieties to each other. The differences may surprise you. Any food, even soft white bread, will change your perception of the flavors of olive oil. So, when you’re tasting, try to do it the way the pros do – drink the oil without putting anything in it. Pour some into a small cup and gently warm in your hand. Then smell the oil to smell its aroma. Then take a sip. Smear the oil in your mouth before swallowing to get the full body and flavor exposure. Then, after you swallow, wait a few seconds – many oils have a nice peppery spiciness that you’ll feel in the back of your throat after a short delay. Color does not indicate quality, so try not to let it affect you. And don’t worry if you can’t explain the flavor profile like a pro – it’s important to find oils you like!
Copyright © 2006 John McBride. All rights to all media are reserved.
The author grants permission to reprint in all places, provided that the article is not used in spam and that copyright, byline, and credit information are included.
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