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Recipe for South African Buttermilk Rusks
Crackers in South Africa are part of the cultural identity – one of the things that exiles in a foreign land crave. Children are raised on rooibos tea (herbal tea) and crackers. These aren’t the pale raw treats that pass off as crackers in the UK – Farleys crackers, which are given to teething babies and are guaranteed to cover your whole house in gooey paste. South African crackers have a texture that is a cross between bread and cake, with additional pieces of raisins or nuts, baked in such a way that they need to be dipped in tea or slowly nibbled. They are stored for a long time in an airtight form, so they are baked in large batches, but even then they are not stored for a long time at home.
As an English woman married to a South African living in London, I came across the rusks during our visits to his family and was an instant convert. Ouma’s Rusks are famous and come in several varieties, and we always came home with a few packs in our suitcase. During a longer visit to a cottage in Philadelphia, near Cape Town, I found a recipe for making my own crackers, tried it, and have been baking them almost every two weeks ever since.
When our son was a toddler and waking up every morning at 5.30, the only thing that made the morning bearable was the thought of tea and biscuits. Our son started eating them early and our couch became a nest of pillows and crumbs. The first thing he ever helped to bake was breadcrumbs, and I always tested my patience as the mixture became a dig scene with diggers or a castle with a moat. The girls also joined when they got older, so for a while I had three kids fighting to get into the dough. Now the youngest knows how to make balls of the right size and I have a group of helpful helpers. So crackers have also become a part of our family culture, my kids may have missed out on the Rooibos tea tradition – (I love it, they hate it) but at least they were raised right about crackers!
A few friends in London were impressed, asked for the recipe and started baking, and it has since spread all the way to Pakistan and the US.
South African buttermilk crackers
1.240 kg / 2 lb 12 oz flour (I use 1 kg wholemeal and the rest white)
2 teaspoons of baking powder
2 teaspoons of bicarbonate of soda
2 teaspoons cream of tartar
2 teaspoons of salt
250 g / 9 oz butter
½ cup raisins (optional)
1 ½ cups brown sugar
2 cups of buttermilk
1 cup of oil
(1 cup = 250 ml)
Preheat the oven to 190C/380F
Grease three approximately 20 x 10 cm / 8 x 4 inch loaf tins or any combination of deep baking tins that will yield about the same amount.
Sift the flour, baking powder, baking soda, tartar, and salt into a large bowl. Cut the butter into small cubes and rub into the flour. Add raisins if you are using it. You can also experiment with different nuts and seeds, but crackers are just as good.
In another bowl, combine the buttermilk, sugar, eggs, and oil and beat until well combined. Combine the liquid with the dry ingredients and mix, then knead into a stiff dough.
Shape the dough into balls about the size of a ping-pong ball and pack them tightly in a single layer in the loaf pans. I usually end up with six rows of three in each of my tins. Bake for 45 minutes.
Turn out onto a rack and leave to cool for 30 minutes before dividing the balls into individual crackers along the joints. Dry in a low oven at 100C/200F for 4-5 hours until the center is completely dry. They can be stored for many years in an airtight container.
Attention: crumbs are guaranteed on the sofa, in the bed, on the carpet and in the car seat!
Copyright 2006 Keith Hitchcock
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