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Summer in Deutschland
It was one of those lovely balmy summer nights, one of those we miss in Germany – the same in England. I was sitting in a beer hall with my older brother. Roses bloomed and it smelled like summer. Rainer and I clinked our large beer mugs, smiling at each other before turning our attention back to the TV screen in front of us. It was the 2010 FIFA World Cup. Germany was playing Ghana and we were winning. As people cheered and hugged each other when Germany scored a goal, a rush of happiness ran through my body and I thought to myself, “Summer in Germany is so wonderful.”
My return to “home” played a big part in the homecoming celebration. Although I like living in England and I feel at home there, I am still German and I have not forgotten my roots. Coming back to Nuremberg to see my family is always wonderful and I miss them so much when they are not with me. But this time visiting Nuremberg was even better.
Germany, like England, doesn’t have much summer these days. As a result, every time there is a sunny summer day, everyone goes out to enjoy the weather. People are happier, cheerful, relaxed. Over the past fifteen to twenty years, German cities have changed a lot in the way they celebrate summer. Cafes and restaurants no longer need a dedicated, approved and hidden backyard to give their guests an outdoor experience. These days, dining tables are just outside, on the sidewalk, sometimes in a tiny open-air corridor, or even across the street, which is always interesting to watch. Waiters must dodge traffic to reach customers. Germany used to be quite strict about the rules and regulations of where delis were allowed to feed their customers, but nowadays anything is possible. Germany feels distinctly cosmopolitan and relaxed when you’re sipping a perfectly frothed cappuccino on a sunny day on a small side road, slouched on comfortable Arabic seat cushions, surrounded by plant pots overflowing with flowers from around the world.
Another thing I noticed about the better and bigger German summer was the now openly celebrated love of football and the way people came together for the event – openly and outside. It wasn’t exactly German culture when I lived there. Fifteen years ago, they celebrated at home, with their own, behind closed doors. When Germany hosted the FIFA World Cup four years ago, the country finally got a chance to show the world that Germany had changed. It took the Germans hosting the World Cup to finally show that there was more to their country than cars and wars.
In 2006, it became apparent that the national psyche had changed over the years. Germany has finally recovered from its sixty-year guilt trip. I grew up in a society that was ashamed of its past. Being German was nothing to be proud of after Hitler and the Holocaust. I was born in 1970, almost twenty-five years after World War II, and I was constantly reminded of what happened then. At school we covered the Holocaust in all subjects: in German class we had to write essays about what it was like for Anne Frank; in history class, we spent years, not months, looking atin, from an internal point of view, an external point of view, an ethical point of view, everything; in French class we discussed the Resistance and how bad the Germans were and how right the French were. Don’t get me wrong, I think it was good that Germany took responsibility for its actions, and the guilt the country felt was real and deep. It’s good that the past was not painted with a rosy brush. However, I feel it is time for Germany to move on and recognize that this all happened a long time ago and that as a nation we have learned the lessons of the past. We are not like that anymore. And it took a sporting event to bring a new, improved, positive-thinking German out of the closet.
I was in London and so missed when Germany hosted the 2006 FIFA World Cup, but I heard about it. Everywhere. The Germans loved to host him. Visitors from all over the world loved “Zu Gast bei Freunden in Deutschland” (Zu Gast bei Freunden in Deutschland), which was the official slogan of the event. Finally, Germans were once again allowed to be proud of being German. Germany was complimented for how well the event was organized and for the warm hospitality shown to the guests. Outside the country, people remembered that Germany was something more. Germany was cool again.
As a German living in England, I was very sad to miss the 2006 event. Sports championships in general are not so much fun when you live abroad and everyone around you wants your team to lose. But this year, here in Germany, I experienced how much fun it can be to be a temporary soccer fan. Until 2006, football competitions in Germany were watched behind closed doors. Pubs were unlikely to show the game and the concept of large public events was not even considered. Now everything is different. Almost every pub I passed had signs advertising that they would be showing football. Many display screens in the garden or even on the street. Business meetings were canceled in favor of football. Football was absolutely everywhere around me, and life was all happening on the streets. The atmosphere was wonderful.
Having lived in England for fifteen years, I see myself as a Londoner far more than I ever felt as a resident of Nuremberg. I left Germany for many reasons, mainly because I wanted adventure. I visit Germany regularly, but during those visits I usually see my family and friends and not much else. This time I was lucky enough to spend more time and see how Germany has changed. Of course the Germans are still a bit square and they still love their rules and regulations, but I can see a change. Most Germans are more cosmopolitan than any other nation I have met. They love and respect other cultures and finally, they are proud to be an open and tolerant nation. Things got better in Germany.
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